Section outline
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The course starts with an explanation of the weaving principle, warp and weft set. The need for weaving preparatory and sequence of machines is explained. Winding: objectives; basic processes (unwinding, tensioning, yan clearing, lubrication, package formation); winding machines, process quality control. Warping: objectives, types of machines, beam warping, sectional warping, process quality control. Sizing: objectives, sizing materials, preparation, sizing machines, influence of sizing on yarn properties, process quality control. Looming: objectives; drawing-in process, tying-in process, machines, process quality control.
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The classification of weaving machines is presented. A weaving machine's basic mechanisms are consecutively explained: Warp Let-off, Warp Shedding, Filling Insertion, Beat-Up, Take-up mechanisms, control of the motion of the mechanisms. The accent lays on the shedding mechanisms: cam shedding, dobby shedding and jacquard shedding, and the different types of filling insertion: shuttle weaving, air-jet weaving, water-jet weaving, projectile weaving, rapier weaving and multiphase weaving.
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The topic discusses the fabric construction and specifics of the weave pattern. The characteristics of the weave patterns are presented. Different elements of the weave design: from the idea to the CAD/CAM realization are explained. The graphical representation of the weaves and the meaning of the different parts: weave, drawing-in draft, reed plan, cam draft and warp and filling profiles, are presented.
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The weave designs of the plain, twill, satin and sateen weaves are presented. The derivatives of the elementary weaves are also explained and demonstrated: derivatives of the plain weave (rib weaves and basket weaves), derivatives of the twill weave, derivatives of the satin and sateen weaves. Examples of graphical representation of the weaves are given using DB Weave free online software.
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The design of simple fabric structures made of one warp and one weft set is considered. Different weave effects and textures are studied: rib effects, cell effects, diagonal effects and zigzag effects. Methods for curvilinear and wave effects are also included. Different methods for the creation of crepe weaves are presented. Special attention is paid to weaves for the creation of specific effects: relief textures and ajouré effects. Examples of graphical representation of the weaves are given using DB Weave free online software.